Ephesus
From Turkey Travel Guide
A major tourist destination for good reason, Ephesus is one of the best preserved Roman cities in the world. It is also popular because it is easy to access via the nearby airport (Adnan Menderes Airport) and port (Kusadasi). To avoid the crowd, either arrive at opening, at lunchtime, or in the late afternoon (the guards won't chase you out immediately at closing time), or if possible outside of the summer tourist season.
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[edit] History
According to myth, the Oracle of Delphi, in typically cryptic fashion, advised Androclus, an Athenian prince, to found his settlement between a site indicated by the leaping fish and running boar. While his expedition was dining on fish they had caught, one of the fish jumped out of the pan, throwing hot coal onto a bush and startling a wild boar that was hidden in it. The spot where it was killed became the site for the Temple of Artemis, which grew to be a pilgrimage destination around 800 BC. The city itself was prosperous by 600 BC.
King Croesus of Lydia successfully attacked the wall-less city around 600 BC. To defend themselves, the residents tied a rope to the Temple of Artemis, hoping for divine protection. King Croesus conquered the city anyway but funded the temple restoration personally and resettled the residents behind it, destroying the city. They continued to pay tribute to Lydia and later Persia, aside from a brief period in the Athenian League.
After a Herostratus burned the temple, seemingly just for the infamy, the city set up a massive reconstruction effort. This so impressed Alexander the Great upon his arrival in 334 BC that he took a special interest in the city, having the harbor dredged of silt. His successor in the region, General Lysimachus, continued improvements, building high city walls, the gymnasium, stadium, and theater.
Although Ephesus originally fought in an alliance against the Romans, it changed sides when the extent of Roman power became evident. This switch, along with the city's importance as a trade center, made it the Roman capitol of Asia Minor. The city prospered under Roman rule, and various emperors erected monuments and funded reconstruction after a devastating earthquake in 17 AD. It became a center for early Christians; St. John and the Virgin Mary were thought to have settled here (what is believed to be her house can be visited in the hills near by) and St. Paul lived and preached here for three years, writing many of his letters to the Ephesians.
The city declined in importance as the sea retreated and the harbor, despite efforts to clear it, continued to silt up. It remained significant into the fourth century, and the Third Ecumenical Council was held here in 431 AD. Without the sea commerce, however, the residents gradually moved to Ayasuluk Hill.
[edit] Visitor's Guide
From the southern entrance, you will first pass the presumed tomb of St. Luke on the right, with the ticket booth ahead and souvenir shops on the left. It is a circular stone structure with a bull, the apostle's symbol.
[edit] Upper Ephesus
Next you will pass the few remains of the Magnesia gate and approach the State Agora. Note the fountain, water palace, which provided water distribution to the city, and fountain of Pollio. Constructed in 97AD, the statues of this fountain follow the adventures of Polyphemus with the son of Poseidon, originally from a Temple of Isis.
In the center are the Basilica, a commercial street, and Bouleterion or Odeon, a small theater. To the immediate east are the baths, and further in the east is the East Gymnasium. On the western side is the Monument of Memmius. From the first century, this statue was built in the shape of a four-sided victory crown. The statues of Memmius, his father, Gaius, and his grandfather the dictator Sculla are still visible.
On the North side, you will pass the Pyraneum, the city hall and home of the eternal flame that symbolized the city and was tended to by the Prytan, the highest ranking citizen of the city.
[edit] Cuertes Way
On the right is the Tomb of Memmius, and the left the Temple of Domitian, which once housed a 5 meter statue of the emperor. Also on the left is the Museum of Inscriptions, which is usually closed, but when open exhibits marble tablets that outline the history of the city. Next along the road is the two-story Gate of Hercules, which has reliefs of Hercules on the pillars, followed by the Fountain of Trajan. The foot that remains gives a picture of the scale of the statue of Trajan that once stood here.
The Terraced Houses on the left have an extra admission fee, but it well worth it to see the restored mosaics, indoor plumbing, and house structure. These ruins are on par with the site at Pompeii, Italy.
On a road to the north are the Baths of Varius, which used the natural rock face. The Temple of Hadrian, the supports of which are still in remarkable condition, was build in 138 AD and the Round Monument, built in 50 AD.
Further along Cuertes is the Octagon and Tomb of Androclus on the right. To the north are the Lavatoria, the men's public toilets, and a private house.
The Gate of Hadrian leads to the Sacred Way.
[edit] Sacred Way
Along the Sacred Way is the Library of Celsus. This two-story façade one of the iconic images of Turkey. The replica statues between the doorways represent virtues; Sophia (wisdom), Episteme (science), Ennoia (intelligence), and Arete (excellence).
The Gate of Augustus is at the entrance to the Agora. Gladiator Carvings are ahead of that, and to the west is Temple of Serapis. Right of the Sacred Way is the Great Theater, where the apostle Paul addressed the Ephesians.
Northeast of that is the Gymnasium.
[edit] Harbor Street
The road to the west is called Harbor Street. After the Gymnasium on the right is the Palaestra of Verulanus. Next are the Harbor Gymnasium and Harbor Baths. Along the southern side of the street are the Helenistic Walls. The end of the street marks the location where the ancient harbor was once located.
[edit] Lower Gate
Past the Gymnasium to the north is the other ticket booth. The Lower Gate is on the right. Past the souvenir shops and restaurant is the Double Church on the left.
Right on the road are the Byzantine Baths, followed by the Acropolis and Small Temple. Follow the fork to the right. On the left is the Gymnasium of Vedius, and the right is the Stadium. Left on the next road is the Koressian Gate.
A few hundred yards to the southeast is the Sanctuary of the Mother Goddess Cybele.
Before reaching the restaurant, turn right in a gap in the Byzantine Walls and continue southeast to the Grotto of the Seven Sleepers. The legend goes that seven persecuted Christians took refuge in the cave in the third century, which their pursuers sealed. An earthquake awakened them in 500 BC, long after Ephesus had become a Christian city. After their deaths, they were buried in the cave, and became local cult figures.
[edit] Getting there
The choices for going to Ephesus depend on place of departure. There are two entrances about 3 km apart, but most visitors prefer to go to the upper entrance (southern entrance, güney kapisi) and walk downhill through the ruins.
[edit] From Selçuk
Many of the hotels in Selçuk offer free transportation.
It is also possible to walk along the highway on a shady lane, called Dr. Sabri Yayla, and takes 30-45 minutes.
[edit] From Pamacuk and Kusadasi
Frequent dolmuses drop visitors at the turn off a short distance from the entrance. They cost about a lira and take only a few minutes.
It is also possible to take a taxi from town. It should cost around 10 lira.
[edit] Eat & Drink
It's best to bring a bottle of water with you, as temperatures get high and drinks are expensive on site.
There is a small cafe at the northern gate. Gözleme (Turkish stuffed crepes) and Ayran are available from stands northeast of the Byzantine Walls.
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