izmir

  • Kemeralti: Istanbul can’t compare to this historical bazaar of Izmir
    Walking through the old streets of Kemeralti is literally stepping back over 300 years in time.  A bustling mix of markets and cafes, the stores are crammed side by side, placed within the pre-war houses unaffected by the Great Fire of 1922.  According to historical records, the trade area started back around 1650, and further exploded with the creation of Kizlaragasi Han, the shopping center surrounding a courtyard for rest and relaxation. Taking the bus to Konak, I jumped off the terminal and headed into the jungle of the Kemeralti with my fiancé at hand.  At the ancient steps of...

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  • The Church Restorations of Izmir
    It’s no question that Turkey encompasses some of the most important Christian monuments since the birth of the religion.  One aspect of the land’s history is its development of Christianity, both spiritually and politically.  Up until 1922, Izmir was a stronghold for Christian communities, involving Greeks, Armenians, Levantines, French, and Italians.  Living in Izmir today, one may find that hard to believe.  But amid all the minarets, the historical and religious significance of the city’s Christian past is reincarnating itself this year.  Two former Greek Orthodox churches are set for complete restoration to help preserve Izmir’s rich diverse history, as...

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  • Rebetiko: The Music Of Izmir and Asia Minor
    Athens, Greece, late 1920s.  The crescent moon hangs over the meyhanes of Athenian ghettos.  They are filled with men smoking their nargile, sipping their coffees and drinking a glass of raki. The small stage in front of them features a small group of bouzouki players, a kanun (santouri) player, accompanied by an oud and dumbek.  A lead singer, female, opens her mouth and delivers the words of pain and sadness, using the makam style of singing, honing in on the traditions of the world they lost in Asia Minor.  This is Rebetiko, also known as the Greek blues. Singers lament...

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  • Christmas in Izmir
    December 25th, 2009.  The Christmas trees were up, decorations covered the windows in the neighborhood, and everyone was filled with holiday cheer.  One might think I was in America from this description, but far from it, I was in Turkey.  Now, to those who may not be aware, many of the ancient traditions of the holiday stem from Asia Minor.  Santa Clause, originally St. Basil in the Eastern Orthodox Church, hailed from Caesarea, modern day Kayseri near Cappadocia.  To this day, a traditional Greek Christmas carol proclaims his miracle work in the lands of Anatolia.  In fact, his feast day...

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  • Izmir: Preserving History
    Izmir is simply one of the most beautiful cities in the Aegean and Mediterranean. Its history stems back several thousand years, detailing stories of how great empires conquered the city; everyone from the Greeks and Romans, to the Byzantines and Ottomans (many in between too). By the early 1900s, Izmir was comparable to a mini-New York, with several different groups of people and classes co-existing with one another. Ottoman Turks, Greeks, Armenians, Jews, French, Italians, Levantines; each group of people with a different language and religion, but as one-Smyrnean. It was this era that still leaves an imprint on Izmir’s...

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  • Remnants of an Empire: A descendant of Ottoman Smyrna
    Often asked as to what my ethnicity is, I respond Greek. Dig a little deeper, and I will explain that my heritage stems from Izmir (Smyrna), modern day Turkey. The usual response to that is “Oh, you’re Turkish?” Rather than rush to say no, I just sigh and think ‘if only we can understand a country beyond its patriotism’. Having traveled around Turkey and Izmir, with the intent of living there this year, I can easily say it is one of the most beautiful and special places this world has to offer. Being of Greek decent, Turkish culture never ceases...

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