Hagia Sophia – Church of Holy Wisdom (Aya Sofya)

If only the walls could tell tales of this building’s transformation from church to mosque to museum. The architectural feat of Hagia Sophia in 537A.D. apparently led Emperor Justinian I to declare ‘Oh Solomon, I have outdone thee!’. It was the largest church for 1000 years, beautified by an interior of polychrome marble and over 30 million gold mosaic tiles. The biggest architectural wonder, however, was the dome that was almost 30m in diameter and 50m above the ground. Alas, it wasn’t perfect and cracked and crumbled from earthquakes. Improved techniques and architecture now support its weight. Still, its design is thought to have served as a model for several Ottoman mosques thereafter, including the neighboring Blue Mosque. The church was converted into a mosque when Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror barged through in 1453. The stone cannonballs in the outer courtyard are thought to have been used to sack the city. Islamic prohibition of figurative imagery meant the beautiful mosaics were covered with plaster. These have been partially uncovered today to reveal Byzantine mosaics side-by-side Ottoman designs. It served as the principal mosque for almost 500 years, before being converted to a museum by Ataturk in 1934. The best Byzantine mosaics have been uncovered on the mezzanine level.

Aya Sofya Sq., Sultanahmet

The Church of St. Savior in Chora – Kariye Museum

Second only to Hagia Sophia in terms of Byzantine importance, this church followed much the same fate – church turned mosque turned museum. It’s original location outside the city walls of Constantine the Great earned it’s name ‘Chora’, meaning ‘outside the walls’ or ‘in the country’. Its beauty lies with the breathtaking Palaeologian mosaics and frescos that date back to around the 14th Century. The details of the mosaics are delicate with subtle shadings and rich colors, usually lacking in earlier Byzantine mosaics. The church sits on the downward slope of the seventh hill of Istanbul and overlooks the Golden Horn. Its out-of-the-way location is best visited by taxi or a half-day Istanbul city tour.

St. Antoine

A church by many other names, St. Antoine is also known as St. Anthony of Padua Cathedral, Sant’Antonio di Padova Cathedral in Italian or Sent Antuan in Turkish. Regardless, a day on Istiklal will introduce you to its chiming bells. Located past Galatasary Lisesi on the left side of Istiklal, you’ll come across its iron gates and red brick, neo-gothic façade. It was designed by Istanbul-born Italian architect Giulo Mongeri, designer of the Maçka Palas in Nisantasi (which now houses Armani Café and Gucci) and the Palas bank building in Karaköy. The local Italian community built the church in 1913, which totalled around 40,000 people at the time. It’s fame lies with Pope John XXIII’s 10-year presence at the church, when he served as the Vatican’s ambassador to Turkey before being elected pope (and leant fluent Turkish!). It’s the largest and busiest Roman Catholic Church in Istanbul and is worth a look on a sightseeing day in Taxsim.

İstiklal Caddesi No: 171, www.sentantuan.com.

St. Stephan Bulgarian Church

The grey exterior fools many a visitor into thinking the church is built of stone. However, this Bulgarian Orthodox church is made entirely of cast iron, one of few that have survived from that era in the world. An iron frame was chosen over concrete due to the soft ground of its location on the Golden Horn shores. The materials were floated from Vienna down the Danube and the Black Sea on 100 barges. Built in one and a half years, this Neo-Gothic church was designed by Armenian Hovsep Aznavur of Istanbul. Having expressed their desire to Sultan Abdülaziz to be liberated from the Greek Orthodox Patriarch, the new Bulgarian Exarch was invented in the late 1800s to keep peace in the Christian Orthodox community. The church was built by the Bulgarian minority and symbolizes the rising ethnic nationalism of their community in 1989. For a visit inside, locate the caretaker to open the doors. An easier suggestion is to join the small Bulgarian Orthodox congregation on a Sunday to enjoy its beauty from the inside.

Tahta Minare Mh., Mürselpaşa Caddesi 85

Santa Maria Draperis Catholic Church   

Only a Virgin Mary icon survived a fire that destroyed the original church that was donated by a Draperis family member in 1584. The reverend icon now stands guard over the altar of the rebuilt church, constructed in 1769 off Istiklal Caddesi near Tunel. It is the oldest Roman Catholic Church in Istanbul and apparently the only church to have the name of Islamic caliphs above its door. As a sign of appreciation, the plaques mark the names of Sultan Abdülhamid II, who gave permission for the construction of the church, and Ridvan Pasha, the şehremin (mayor) who supported it. Look for the marble plaque that sits above the rightmost arch of the entrance. After entering, a staircase leads visitors down to admire the two-storey façade that holds a beautiful statue of the Virgin Mary. The church is maintained by the Franciscan Brothers (OFM) and open from Monday to Saturday at10am-12pm and 2-4pm.

İstiklal Caddesi 431, Beyoğlu

St. George Fener Greek Orthodox Patriarchy Church (Ayios Yeorgios Church/Aya Yorgi Fener Rum Orthodox)

The relatively humble exterior hides the importance of this church, which is one of the most important Orthodox religious sites as the worldwide headquarters of the Greek Orthodox Patriarchate. It has held the seat of the Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople since the 1600s, recognized as the spiritual leader of the world’s Eastern Orthodox Christians. The simple facade fails to prepare one for the opulent, decadent interior of marble and intricately carved adornments. Arguably, the humble exterior is thought to be a result of Ottoman Islamic law, where non-Islamic buildings were required to be smaller and more modest than mosques or madrasas. The collection of historical artefacts inside attracts thousands of pilgrims each year. Among the most significant include a circa 5th century patriarchs throne, three rare mosaic icons and a fragment of the column on which Jesus is believed to have been tied and flogged. For daily visits, the church is open from 8.30am-4pm and located in the Fener region (near Eyup district), between Sadrazam Ali Pasa Street and Incebel Street.

www.ec-patr.org

Crimean Church

Dedicated to the memory of British soldiers who fought in the Crimean War, this church now serves the Church of England’s Anglican community. It stands on land that was donated by Sultan Abdulmecit (1839) as a welcoming gesture for the non-Muslim foreigner community. A supporter of Ottomanism’, it was an attempt to integrate the communities into the empire to suppress nationalistic movements. The neo-gothic architecture is the design of G.E. Street (1824-1881), renowned for his design of the Royal Courts in London. Each stone of this pretty church was brought from Malta until its completion in 1868. They still hold Sunday communion, daily prayer sessions and run a hospitality program for homeless refugees.

Serdar-i Ekrem Sokak No: 83 – Galatasaray Karakoy

St. Trinity Armenian Catholic Church (Aya Triada Ermeni Katolik Kilisese)

Hidden in a little alleyway off Istiklal known as Perukar Çikmazi (meaning wig maker’s alley), the church stands in contrast to its neighbouring 22 storey, chrome and glass office building (Odakule Centre). The first church built on this site by the Armenian Catholic community in 1600 was wooden and became victim to a devastating fire. It sturdy, stone replacement was built in the 1770s. Having briefly lost the church to the Austrian community, Napoleon III himself persuaded Sultan Abdul Aziz to return the church to the Armenian Catholic community in 1855, which remains in their possession to this day. Also known as the Holy Trinity Church (Üç Horon), its marble and gold leaf interior compliment the Armenian architecture.

İstiklal Caddesi, Perukar Çıkmazı Beyoğlu  

St. Triada Church (Hagia Triada Rum Kilisesi)

As you arrive at Taxsim Square, it’s hard to miss the high domed Greek Orthodox Church that looms behind the line of kebab fast food stores. The beauty of the grey, dominating exterior reveals nothing of the colourful frescoed ceilings, delicate icons and marbled interior. A Greek cemetery that once occupied this site was partly removed for construction of the church in 1867. It finally opened its doors in 1880, a total of 13 years later, and has been functioning to this day. It’s Istanbul’s largest Eastern Orthodox Church and provides an interesting view of Neo-classical influence, uncharacteristic of Byzantine Orthodox churches.

Taksim Meydanı Meşelik Sok. No:11/1  

Cathedral of the Holy Spirit (Cathedral of St. Esprit)

A short trip from Taxsim allows visitors to view the second largest Roman Catholic Church in Istanbul, after St. Antoine. The construction of this cathedral is thought to have sparked a gradual move away from the segregated Christian community beyond its traditional neighbourhoods of Beyoglu and Galata. Its Baroque style was influenced by Swiss-Italian architect Giuseppe Fossati and colleague Julien Hillereau and built in 1846. Its great organ is a special feature of the church. In the courtyard also sits a bronze statue of Pope Benedict XV (1854-1922), built by the Turkish state in 1922 to acknowledge his support for Turkish soldiers. St. Esprit has hosted a number of papal visits to Turkey, including Pope Paul VI, Pope John Paul II and Pope Benedict XVI. The Istanbul European Choir also performs here every season.

Cumhuriyet Avenue, 205/B, Harbiye,

1. The Bosphorus. It would be sinful not to embrace the Bosphorus in some way, considering it’s the throbbing vein of Istanbul and responsible for much of its history. Take a boat tour from Eminonu or fine dine in one of the many restaurants that are scattered along the waterfront from Besiktas onwards, including Ortakoy and Bebek.

2. Football Fever. As passion goes, football is high on the list of beloved things in Turkey; scream yourself hoarse at a match and experience fanatical football at its best. Even better, hang around the football stadium beforehand and watch the fans rally down the street in their team colours; Beşiktaş, Galatasaray and Fenerbahçe are the three favourites and provide the most entertaining street parties, stretching from the centre of the districts of the same name all the way to the stadiums.

3. Learn Backgammon in a makeshift tea garden. Look on any main street, back street or side street and be sure to find a tea house complete with miniature stools and knee-high tables. Challenge a friend to a game of the white and black checkers and luck of the dice; first to five wins. This is an ideal time to consume numerous cups of ‘cay’ (tea).

4. Try the local beer, Efes. Named after the ancient Roman city of Ephesus (Efes in Turkish), its unique taste is the product of rice being added during the brewing stage.

5. Eat fish with raki in Nevizade, Beyoglu. Head to the fish market (balik pazaar) of Nevizade located off Istiklal Caddesi, Beyoglu. The streets are crammed with fish restaurants and bars. The best fish to eat is whatever’s in season and they have a great selection of fish mezzes as well. Fish is traditionally consumed with the anise-flavoured Turkish alcohol raki, a clear liquid that turns cloudy when water is added.

6. Rub noses with the elite in a ritzy Bosphorus club. Although pricey, the luxury super clubs dotted along the Bosphorus in Ortakoy should be experienced at least once. Dress in your best and dance to DJ tunes in the al fresco settings of Reina, Angelic, Suada Club or Safir. Watch as locals arrive in their private yachts.

7. Break the fast at Rumeli Hisari. Shadowed by the fortress of Rumeli Hisari is a clutter of breakfast restaurants overlooking the Bosphorus. Locals spend lazy weekend mornings indulging in an assortment of meats, cheeses and olives with a side of cucumber, tomato and kaymak, a creamy spread best served with honey on the comb. Walk off your full stomachs with a stroll along the Bosphorus.

8. Eat at a Turkish meyhane. A ‘meyhane’ is a traditional Turkish restaurant where mezzes, cheeses and coal grilled meats are consumed over a long, late dinner, complimented with a bottle of raki; it’s a ritual. Most meyhanes will have live Turkish music and touristic ones will have a belly dancer as well.

9. Bar hop Tunel. Head to the bottom of Istiklal Caddesi, Beyoglu, to find the narrow streets of Tunel lined with restaurants, bars and clubs, and a cluster of people. It’s the latest party playground to become popular; throw a stone in any direction and you’ll find fun.

10. Relax in a Turkish bath. The combination of steam, heated marble, a hardy scrub and a soapy massage will relax those sore soles and aching limbs after a day of sightseeing. Step back in history with a visit to the three hundred year old Cagoglu Hamam or head to Cemberlitas Hamam; these are the two main baths in Sultanahmet.

Yes, there’s something going on under Istanbul’s waters. The world’s deepest undersea-immersed tube tunnel currently lies dormant under the Bosphorus Strait. Marmaray is the grand title given to this underwater rail transport project, a combination of the ‘Sea of Marmara’, which lies south of the project site, and the Turkish word for rail, ray. And while the tube tunnel was completed back in 2008, it’s still yet to grace Istanbul with a grand opening. Yes, there was more than just mud lurking underneath.

The project quickly became a constructer’s nightmare… and an archaeologist’s dream. Breaking the ground back in 2004, it’s been a long wait to unearth all the historical artifacts buried in the mud.

Digging the European-side entrance tunnel revealed a trove of byzantine-era treasures – the city’s largest harbor, traces of Constantine the Great’s city wall, and the remains of several ships, including what appears to the only ancient or early medieval gallery ever discovered.

Not interesting enough? Surely even a non-history buff can fathom excitement at the discovery of Istanbul’s oldest settlement at a ripe old age of 6000BC. Seems it was popular site to live, even back in prehistoric times.

But not everyone is excited about the discoveries that caused a four-year delay and some 500million Turkish Lira. The Turkish Prime Minister sees Istanbul’s residents as more important than ‘archaeological stuff’ (his words, not mine).

The tunnel is just the Asian-European connection point of a high-capacity 76km railway system. As one of the world’s major transportation infrastructure projects at present, it also involves three new underground stations at Yenikapı, Sirkeci, and Üsküdar, and the renewal or renovation of 37 surface stations and tracks. Plus, a third track will be added to accommodate future long-distance/high-speed passenger trains. The usage of rail transportation in Istanbul is predicted to rise from 3.6% to 27.7%. And with Istanbul’s congested traffic and smoggy skyline, a public transport system is sorely needed.

But experts say the discoveries are priceless heritage artifacts for “humanity’s history.”

With all that hidden history below, it seems Istanbul’s development projects could find themselves in a constant fight between The People and The Past. Who will win the war?

It’s certainly not stopping the Turkish Prime Minister’s future visions for Istanbul’s infrastructure. By 2023, residents should be able to drive underwater if the construction of the projected underwater highway is ever realized.

Better bring your trowel

What’s the tunnel’s claim to fame? Yes, deeper and longer tunnels exist already. What’s different, however, is the v Tunnel’s 1.4km central section made from earthquake-proof submerged tubes. Each of the 11 tubes is about 130m (430ft) and weighs up to 18,000 tons. Unlike the tunnel’s bored-rock entrances, the central tubes are connected with flexible joints that can withstand earthquake shakes without breaking. This is important, seeing the tunnel lies just near the North Anatolian Fault, which has over a 50% chance of a strong quake in the next 30 years. At 55-60m underwater, it’ll be deepest of its kind.

It seems that Turkey is looking to space for possible touristic adventures. Well, near-space, at least. A Turkish company, VIP Tourism, plans to bring the Spanish designed ‘bloon’ to Konya, Turkey, as soon as 2014.

What the hell is a ‘bloon’ you ask? It’s a balloon-like pod that allows people to soar 36km above Earth for an astronaut view. That’s twice the cruise altitude of the super-speed Concorde. And seeing the tour goes for two whole hours, you might even get a chance to conduct a worldwide census from above.

Pretty neat if you can afford the €111,000 /passenger price tag. Sounds pricey? Considering other space travel options, it’s the best bargain you’ll find for a planetary experience.

I mean, it’s a hell of lot cheaper than orbital rockets that cost $56million per passenger to travel up to 400km altitude for a week. And it’s definitely longer than the $200,000 sub-orbital space travel up to 100km altitude for a mere seven minutes.

The idea, says inventor José Mariano Lopez-Urdiales, is all about bringing the experience of space to a wider audience. Granted, the ‘wider audience’ still refers to a small percentage of relatively rich people. The ‘general audience’ would need to sell their house or a kidney to afford such leisure. Make that two kidneys, and a liver.

The plus side over real space travel is that there’s no age or physical restriction, and no training required for dealing with G-forces. The safety and environmental impact is better too, seeing there’s no explosive elements. Just sit back, and enjoy the ride.

They’ll also serve food, including Turkish cuisine, so when weighing the pros and cons, one should definitely deduct that from the final cost. Eating out is expensive, after all.

Spain will host the first bloon flights, but VIP Tourism CEO Ceylan Pirinçcioğlu said plans are currently in place to create a terminal for flights in Konya.

Konya is the home of 13th-century Sufi poet Mevlana (Rumi), so you can also take a spiritual journey with Whirling Dervishes before shooting out to space. That’s another ‘pro’ to be deducted from the cost. Already, the price tag is looking better.

The goal is to get 100 flight reservations for 2014, with each flight taking four passengers and two pilots.

Perhaps I’ll get a postcard instead.

You dream of how good it’s going to be straight from the source. You order a kebab at the first restaurant you see, wiping a trickle of salvia that escapes the corner of your mouth. The big moment arrives. You’re excited. And suddenly, as you look down at your order, you’re confronted with a perplexing problem: what the hell is that floppy, skinny-arse wrap on my plate?

A real Turkish kebab is nothing like the westernised version, where you select to stuff your kebab till it’s bursting with salads and sauces. You end up with half a kilo of shaved meat, sauce running down your fingers and a bellyache from overeating. When it comes to a true Turkish kebab, it’s about less, not more.

The Turkish kebab is simple and understated. The flavour lies in the roasted meats – salad is used for a hint of colour only, and maybe you’ll get a few fries for fun. The biggest decision you’ll face is whether to have it with or without cheese (say karşali for cheese!). Despite the overflowing sacks that fill the spice bazaars, Turkish food is simply flavoured. In kebabs’ case, it’s usually red flakes of dried, chopped peppers – or nothing at all. Wrap it all up, and you’ve got yourself a tasty meal.

Inevitably, you go for more.

Cocky with your local knowledge of the Turkish kebab, you order like a pro. But they thwart you again. You look at your order and you’re back at square one: what the hell is that on my plate?

Because there’s more than one way to wrap a kebab, baby. Do you want your meat shaved, skewered or minced? Bread loaf or bread wrap? On top or in between the bread? Or smothered in yoghurt, melted butter and tomato sauce? The choices, agh!

So how do you know what to order? It’s all in the name.

To just order a ‘kebab’, you’ll probably get chunks of meat roasted on a skewer and served on an open piece of bread (defined as şiş kebab). Then again, if you happen to be sitting in a restaurant that has a neon sign flashing ‘Adana kebab’ or ‘Urfa kebab’, then you’ll be getting a log of minced meat instead, with a touch of spicy flavour..

The döner kebab is the most affiliated with foreigners. You’ve seen the giant rotisserie meats in cities worldwide, where men wield long, flexible knives and carve thin strips of meat. The only difference in Turkey is that you’ll see one every few metres. And the meat carver will probably be stubbing out a cigarette as he prepares your order.

Sounds simple enough? Even döner kebabs come in different forms. It’ll be stuffed into a bread role unless you specify you want it wrapped in thin sheets of bread. For that you need to order a ‘dürüm’.

Once you’ve mastered the döner basics, you’ll be ready for the iskender kebab. Strips of döner meat are thrown on top special Turkish bread and smothered in tomato sauce. I mean, it’s drowning in the stuff, alongside a dollop of yoghurt and a touch of melted butter – or a lot as some locals like it!

And you can be sure it’s fresh – everyone else is eating them too. And there’s a hell of a lot of people in Istanbul to feed.

Beyond the kebab basics, the list goes on. But for that, you’d better plan another trip. It’s a long list.

Depending on traffic the bus takes about 2 hours. It is well worth the journey. I arrived with no plan but a change of clothes in my backpack and a sense of adventure. There main street is flush with hotels purporting rooms for 40tl per night. These offers, as it turns out, are for weekday nights only and as it was Friday the rates were more like 100tl.

Luckily I stumbled upon Bahceli Hostel (ihlamur Cad. no. 3, Şile) just landward from the main road. With no ocean view,the rates are more reasonable at 80tl per night for two people. Walk-ins are welcome but you can also call ahead for reservations. Birol, who runs the place, doesn’t speak any English though so you might need a helper for the phone call (0531-541-4306). The hostel has a kitchen you can use which is handy since Şile is weak on restaurants but the borek I ate near the bus station was excellent. The main attraction of this sleepy town is the quite nights, beautiful vistas, and swimming once the weather turns nice again.

Other things to do include camping on the beach, or taking a dolmus to Ağva (another town about 20 minutes away) and canoeing on the river. In the picture you can see some ancient fort from long ago which is stranded out on a headland. I dont know anything about it because I am not a history buff but if you Google it i am sure you can read to your hearts content who built it and why. There is also a nice lighthouse you can check out down the road about 20 minutes walk from downtown Şile but watch out for snakes if you walk along the grassy coast because I very nearly stepped on one.

The journey back to the city is a depressing one. leaving the quite solitude of a sleep fishing village and plunging back into the traffic jam of life that is Istanbul can be a harsh reality check. Drinking before the bus ride is probably a good solution. Or at least drinking once you arrive home.

Well, for starters, it means that Istanbul has some pretty sweet sporting facilities: the Türk Telekom Arena, Atatürk Olympic Stadium and Şükrü Saracoğlu Stadium have been built or renovated in the last eleven years, plus there are also three UEFA Elite Stadiums among the collection. High quality sporting facilities and event organisation certainly helped get the title, but what will they do with it?

So far, reports are a little hazy. City officials have said they would use the opportunity to make Istanbul one of the healthiest cities in the world. Definitely, there will be a huge push to provide opportunities to engage all of Istanbul’s residents in some type of sport. It will also involve building new sports facilities.

More interesting for visitors, however, is the huge selection of international sporting events that will be held throughout the year.

IAAF World Indoor Championships in Athletics: for track and field lovers, the 15th International Association of Athletics Federations (IAAF) competition will be held at the Ataköy Athletics Arena on March 9 -11.

Euroleague Final Four: this event will surely lure fanatical crowds to Istanbul in early May, as one of the top professional basketball games to watch. It’s been two-decades since Istanbul last held the event. In a scene of serendipity, the games will be held in the Sinan Erdem Dome that opened in 2010 to host the FIBA World Championships.

Bosphorus Cross Continental swim: this is an annual event that avid swimmers should not miss! Where else can you swim across two continents? It’s a 6-7km swim starting on the Asian side of Istanbul, moving across the Bosphorus, and finishing in Europe. It’s a frenzy of fun as you elbow for space among some 1000 swimmers. Check the website for finalised registration and competition dates – the limited spots can fill within a day ( www.bosphorus.cc). Usually held in June/July.

Intercontinental Istanbul Eurasia Marathon: another of Istanbul’s annual events that gives participants the bonus prize of walking across the Bosphorus Bridge. It’s the ONLY day of the year it’s allowed. And of course, it’s the only marathon to cross two continents. With reasons like these, it’s becoming popular for marathon runners (15km and 42km) and fun runners (8km) who just want to gawk at the amazing view. The 34th competition is scheduled for November 11, but registration opened on the 1st of January so sign up! (www.istanbulmarathon.org).

WTA Tour Championships: it’s the second of Istanbul’s three-year deal to host the Women’s Tennis Association (WTA). The world’s top-ranked female players will battle for the title in the Sinan Erdem Arena.

FINA World Swimming Championships (short course 25m): it’s fast and furious, as international swimmers stroke out quick-paced events in a 25m pool. The 11^th championship of the Federation Internationale de Natation (FINA) will be held at the Sinan Erdem Dome Istanbul from December 12-16.

Grand Prix axed: Istanbul has rejected hosting Formula One after fees doubled to stage the race (now a hefty $26 million).

And beyond…

Optimism is high that nabbing the sport title will play in Turkey’s favour for future sporting events.

Preparations for the 2013 Mediterranean Games: after Greece fell into financial troubles, the title was transferred to Turkey to host the 17th Mediterranean Games. The 10-day games will be held from June 24 to July 3, 2013 in Mersin, Turkey. More than 4,000 athletes from 24 countries are expected to rock up.

FIBA World Championship for Women: it appears Turkey has qualified to host the games in 2014. Turkey will go in the hall of fame for being the only country to host both the European and World Championships of basketball for men and women in the last 15 years.

Bid for 2020 Summer Olympics: four rejections have not deterred Turkey in bidding a fifth time for the Olympics. The process is still young, however, and Istanbul will find out if it passes the first phase to become an official candidate city on May 23, 2012. Turkey’s competitors are Baku, Doha, Madrid, Rome and Tokoyo. The final decision will be announced on September 7, 2013 in Buenos Aires, Argentina.

Here are some common misconceptions. Most of them having to do with women and their rights within an Islamic society.

All Women Wear Burqas

This is the most common question people have asked me before I move to Turkey, and although I’ve seen a small amount of women wearing burqas in Istanbul, the majority does not. I’ve seen plenty of women wearing hijab (head scarfs), but I’ve also seen an equal amount of women without one. The hijab issue is a sensitive topic in modern Turkey, because some people believe that the wearing of a hijab represents regression that could lead to a more traditional Islamic country. Here is an insightfularticle from BBC News about this issue.

Women Do Not Have Rights

Unlike Saudi Arabia, there are no restrictions for women, including the right to drive. I personally get heart palpitations crossing the street, so I don’t think I would have the slightest desire to drive in Turkey, but I’ll save that for another post.

Men Have Multiple Wives

Polygamy was outlawed by Kemal Ataturk, the founder of modern Turkey, over 75 years ago to help elevate the status of Turkish women. Some men in smaller Eastern villages do have multiple wives, but it’s not recognized by the government. Here is an article from The Economist that goes into more detail about polygamy and Turkey.

Turkey Is A Dangerous Country

There are parts in this country in the East where it would be in your best interest to not go to, especially the towns bordering Syria. Saying that, Western and Central Turkey is perfectly safe. Regarding personal safety and petty crime, I’ve never felt threatened, but then again I don’t walk around in dark alleys looking for trouble. Honestly I’ve felt parts of San Francisco were more dangerous than here, but of course common sense goes a long way anywhere in the world.

Breakfast

Menemen: the fact that this dish sounds like ‘many men’ will at least get you smiling in the morning. And when it’s served, your grin will get wider as you taste the Turkish version of scrambled eggs. Cooked in a mini metal skillet, the eggs are carefully mixed with finely chopped tomatoes and peppers. From this point, anything can be added: for a bit of local flavour, try it with sucuk (spicy Turkish sausage), beyaz penir (Turkish white cheese), or kavurma (dried beef). If you find a local joint full of people, don’t let worn floors and simple furniture deter you – they’ll serve the best eggs by far. The plain menemen is suitable for vegetarians.
5-10TL depending on the extras

Simit: cheap, tasty and filling. You’ll probably see locals carrying this sesame-covered bread ring on the streets. It’s a doughy treat, somewhere between bread and bagel. Try it with a small wedge of cream cheese, or toasted with melted yellow cheese.
1TL plain, 1.50TL – 2TL with cheese

Lunch

Lentil (Mercimek) soup: it’s a staple starter to any good Turkish meal. The thick lentil soup is made with yellow or red lentils, and you’ll see it served from big piping pots. Bread is usually provided for free.
3TL.

Fish sandwich (balik ekmek): follow the line of fishermen on Galata Bridge to Eminönu, where the smell of tasty cooking will lead you to rocking boats parked at the water’s edge. Join the long lines to grab fried fish on a half loaf of fresh Turkish bread, cooked and served while navigating the sway of the anchored boats. It’s cheap and will give you a truly local experience as you watch the crowds go crazy for this treat.
4TL

Dinner

Manti: these pasta parcels stuffed with meat are often titled as Turkey’s ravioli. However, with hand-rolled pastry and a topping of garlic yoghurt, it’s in a class of its own. Accept their offer to drizzle a touch of red oil that has been stewed with spicy peppers – it’ll add a punch to your meal.
No more than 10TL depending on the restaurant

Kuru Fasulye: an otherwise awkward word to say (ku-ru fa-soo-li-ya), this local dish consists of cannellini beans served over rice. The bright red sauce is the result of the white beans being stewed in a special tomato sauce. So much bigger and better than canned baked-beans. A top choice for vegetarians!
No more than 10TL depending on the restaurant

As you witness daring holidaymakers descend gracefully, like great colourful birds down the mountainside, the feelings of fear are soon replaced by a yearning to experience this ‘once in a lifetime’ opportunity for yourself. You are advised to pre-book and not leave
paragliding until your last day because flights are dependent on weather conditions.

The 45 minute journey up Babadag Mountain from Oludeniz Beach is an experience in itself, an interesting but somewhat bumpy truck ride, dodging various potholes, and contrasting sharply to the smooth descent that follows by paraglide.

On alighting at the take-off points close to the summit, everyone is assessed to see who will make the best pairing with each co-pilot, because having the optimum combined passenger weight is important. You are provided with a flying suit and helmet so all you need to bring is a sturdy pair of shoes such as trainers, your sunglasses, a bottle of water and your camera.

Once strapped to your experienced co-pilot, he waits for the right moment and then instructs you to run or take a few steps, and suddenly you find yourself off the mountain, dipping, diving and rising to catch the thermal. This is probably as close to flying as you can get, and it can seem like an eternity before you eventually settle into the thermal and begin your descent. It takes anywhere between 25 and 45 minutes to reach the beach at Oludeniz and the Blue Lagoon, and the views literally take your breath away. It’s much later that you truly take in that you have jumped off a mountain from a height of approximately 6500ft!

When people book holidays in Olu Deniz, I’m sure many don’t plan to embrace the whole paragliding experience, but seeing the constant stream of colourful canopies soon changes your mind. It really is an experience not to be missed and once you’ve been once, it is tempting to want to rush straight back up and do the whole thing again!

Olu Deniz is not the only place where people choosing Turkey holidays can try paragliding, further along the coast, Kas also has the ideal updrafts, vistas and landing pads needed for this exciting sport.